Inaugural Toronto Underground Market!

26 Sep

I remember reading about this neat thing in San Francisco where different food vendors came together at one location to sell their amazing wares a few months ago. I bemoaned the fact that this wasn’t happening here, in a city filled with so much great food!

Over the next few months I started following more food-related Twitter accounts and came upon Toronto Underground Market. I was elated to see that they had taken up the mantle from the fine folks in San Fran! I waited very impatiently for the tickets to the first TUM event to go on sale and, as soon as they did, snapped up two as quickly as I could. Then began the month-long wait for the actual event at a great venue, the Evergreen Brick Works.  This place has a special meaning to many people, especially for my husband whose neighbour/babysitter/teacher poured her heart and soul into helping revitalize this space as it had long gone unused. Sadly, she passed away this past winter but we know she’d be beyond thrilled to see the BrickWorks being utilized for this kind of event.

Four of us embarked upon this food adventure with high hopes and cash in hand. All the plates and drinks were very reasonably priced from as low as $2 and up to $8 though we didn’t come across anything that much. Most of the dishes we sampled were in the $3-$4 range and were worth every penny. Our first stop was at the ever-sought-after La Carnita station. These guys have caught fire: they’re incredibly popular taco stand pops up from time to time downtown and the line ups start early. They’ve generated a cult following using Twitter and it showed when we arrived at the Brick Works. Their stand had – by far – the longest line but I can tell you that it was worth the 20 minute wait.

While I waited with The Hot Biscuit, the hubby and a friend went in search of beer and food. They brought back pints from Beau’s Lugtread Lager and absurdly delicious pulled pork quesadillas with pickled onions, cilantro and a slice of fresh jalapeno served with a tomato & melon gazpacho, courtesy of Shi-Naki. With another 10 minutes or so ahead of us in the La Carnita line, J headed over to the West Side Beef Co. and brought back stellar beef po’ boys. The teeny little slider weighed about 12 lbs and was stuffed with organic, fresh beef smothered in sauce, surrounded by a fresh, soft, sweet bun. Drool. Possibly the surprise-best dish of the night.

When we finally got to the front of the La Carnita line, we were greeted by some very friendly folks who took our order (2 each of the Mexican chorizo tacos and tacos de lengua) and gave us the requisite piece of art that always accompanies a La Carnita tasting. With one bite, we knew why these folks are so popular: the beef was spicy but very well balanced and the chorizo was tangy, smoky and paired nicely with sweet fruit. Definitely a hit and was unquestionably at or near the top of many, many people’s lists.

One of the good things about standing in line was chatting with the folks around us. People would have these fabulous plates of food and you couldn’t help but exclaim, “Gosh! That looks so good…where did you get it??!” One dish in particular looked so neat that we had to seek it out: deep fried quails eggs at Bistro Filipino. Happily, it was a slightly shorter line and, again, worth every minute. While  I waited, our friends sought out multi-flavoured rice at Vijaya’s & Krishna’s Pure South-Indian Vegetarian Cuisine while J went to track down more beer. The rice was big hit and a mammoth plate of food. Three kinds of rice and a few other things on the plate that could have been a meal unto itself.

Beer in hand, J returned and we got our order of quail eggs along with chicken marinated in annato seed served with a side of garlic rice and pickled vegetables. The eggs were as delectable as they looked: creamy, salty and piping hot. I could’ve gone back for several more servings  and I wouldn’t have been the only one. I overheard many “I just had to get more” conversations among those in line.

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Those plates devoured,  we began our wait for dessert. The line for the various kinds of popovers at Popover Girl’s station was likely the most cheerful one. How could you not be happy waiting for these fluffy, buttery delights? There were savoury and sweet options available: bacon, cheddar, jalapeno, chocolate, red pepper & feta, pistachio tapenade, onion….take your pick. There are no incorrect choices here. The HB and I opted for the chocolate popover filled with pastry cream while our friend went for the cheddar option. Both smelled and tasted absolutely divine. We did our best to savour these pastries as best we could, but ultimately we found ourselves snarfling them down.

While debating going for Just-One-More-Dish, I couldn’t help but eye the macaroons at the Lunch Room’s table. A plate had already been purchased by the HB to take home to her boyfriend and after very little deliberation with myself, I decided that was a hell of a good idea.  A plate of four giant, chocolate-drizzled coconut macaroons for $3? I’d be silly NOT to get at LEAST one plate to eat later.  It was a good call: J and I dove into them when we got home and were not disappointed. The coconut inside was chewy and soft, sticking to your teeth in the best possible way. Hands down the best macaroons I’ve ever had.

Overall, this was one of the most fun food-related events I’ve ever had the chance to go to. It was well organized:  volunteers were thereto clean the little tables and empty garbage bins, to direct traffic and to answer any and all questions. Some of the vendors did run out of food but not until at least more than halfway through the night.  Having done event-work before, I was most impressed with how well this whole event turned out. If you’re lucky enough to get tickets to the one in October, I advise you to go earlier rather than later. Shuttle buses run from Broadview every half hour, but seating is limited. Go with an open mind and an empty stomach and you will leave one happy, full, foodie camper.

Peanut Butter & Chocolate Whoopie Pies

21 Sep

What else could you possibly need to know?

Whoopie Pile!

This recipe is slightly more complicated than the other baking recipes I’ve posted before; however, that’s really only because you need a piping bag (or a really sturdy Ziplock bag) and I’m not great at making the same shape over and over. I enlisted the help of The Hot Biscuit and we got down to making whoopie (pies) last Friday night. They turned out really well: rich, sweet, creamy, moist…all the adjectives you could possibly want.

Makes two dozen.

Ingredients

For the cakes:
5 tb unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2c granulated sugar
1/2 c brown sugar, packed
1 3/4 c all-purpose flour
3/4 c unsweetened cocoa powder
1 1/2 ts baking soda
1/2 ts Kosher salt
1 large egg
1 c milk
2 ts vanilla extract

For the filling:
1/2 c creamy peanut butter
2 oz cream cheese
4 tb unsalted butter, at room temperature
8oz  marshmallow fluff
2.5 c confectioners’ sugar
pinch Kosher salt

Directions

For the cakes…

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and line cookie sheets with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl,  beat the butter and sugars together until fluffy (about 3 minutes) with an electric mixer.
3. In another bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt.
4. In a measuring cup, combine the milk, egg and vanilla.
5. With the mixer on low, alternate adding the flour mixture and the milk mixture in 3 additions until combined.
6. Transfer batter to a piping bag and pipe 2-4 inch circles about 2 inches apart on the parchment lined baking sheets. Bake for 10-12 minutes. Cool for a few minutes on baking sheets and then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

For the filling…

1. In the bowl, beat the peanut butter, cream cheese, and butter together until fluffy. Add in the marshmallow fluff. Gradually add in the confectioners’ sugar and salt. Mix until combined.
2. Fill a piping bag with the filling and use to frost the cakes.

Spicy – And Fancy! – Cucumber Salad

19 Sep

This is Jamie Oliver’s recipe as seen on his 30-minute meals show. It’s incredibly simple and pretty fun to make.  (How many salads can boast that?) It looks fantastic and would work really well if you need a salad dish to impress.

Serves 2-3.

Ingredients

1 English cucumber
2 cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated
1 tb soy sauce
1 ts sesame oil
1 lime
small handful of cilantro, chopped
1/2 fresh red chile, diced into small pieces (optional, but tasty)

Directions

1. Using a peeler, peel the cucumber lengthwise into ribbons. Stop when you reach the seeds as you do not want to use the core of the cucumber. Set aside in a medium bowl.
2. In a small bowl mix ginger, soy, lime juice, sesame oil and red chile.
3. Chop the cilantro and add it to the cucumber ribbons.
4. Dress the salad ONLY when you are ready to eat, as the thin cucumber slices will wilt and become soggy if it’s dressed too early.

Double Chocolate Cake Cookies

12 Sep

You read the title…need I say more to convince you to make these? Okay, how about the fact that they’re incredibly simple to make, are moist and rich, and they have chocolate in two forms. GO. MAKE THEM.

This recipe does make quite a number of cookies, so you may need to cook them in two batches.

Makes roughly three-four dozen.

Ingredients

1 c unsalted butter, softened
1 1/2 c white sugar
2 eggs
1 ts vanilla extract
2 c all-purpose flour
1/2 ts baking soda
1/2 ts salt
2/3 c unsweetened cocoa powder
2 c semisweet chocolate chips

Directions

1. Preheat your oven to 350F.
2. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, baking soda, salt and cocoa powder. Whisk with a fork until even in colour.
3. In a separate, large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs – one at a time – and mix to incorporate.
4. Add the vanilla and mix thoroughly.
5. Add the dry ingredients to the wet and stir until well combined. Stir in the chocolate chips.
6. Spoon onto an ungreased baking sheet, flattening with a fork or knife.
7. Bake for exactly 11 minutes. The cookies will be just barely firm.
8. Allow to cool for a few moments before moving to a cooling rack. Store in an airtight container.

Review: Guu Izakaya

12 Sep

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Have you ever walked into a restaurant and thought to yourself, “Well, this is going to be different”? It’s an exciting feeling that doesn’t happen all that often; but, walking into Guu Izakaya on Church St., I was definitely overcome by that thought.  Everyone who enters and exits gets a loud greeting and goodbye from the entire staff. A bit overwhelming, but it certainly sets the tone for your evening. The place is an absolute nuthouse in the best possible way.

That evening, I was having dinner with my brother and a friend. We were lucky enough to get seats within a few minutes upon arriving, a rare feat as I understand it. Guu features communal dining, with long tables that seat around 15 – 20 people, as well as seats at the bar where you can watch the chefs work. There is a two-hour time limit for diners and often a 1-2 hour wait for a seat. If you can, go early or prepare to cool your heels for a while. I promise you that it will be worth it.

My two dining companions had been to Guu before so they did the bulk of the ordering. They ordered the best dishes they’d had before and also took cues from our tablemates who’d ordered some fascinating dishes. The menu is set up tapas-style, a fantastic way to sample all sorts of delicious creations. We ordered eight dishes for the three of us which was just about right and all were quite reasonably priced.

The first to arrive was the decidedly (and awesomely) decadent deep-fried brie served with a mango and blueberry sauce.  The four pyramid-shaped morsels were golden and crispy on the outside and gooey, rich deliciousness on the inside. Like, eyes-rolling-in-the-back-of-your-head-good. Next up: the salmon sashimi. Melt in your mouth greatness. It’s one of those simple dishes that really sings based on the merits of great, high quality ingredients.

On to the bacon-wrapped scallops and enoki mushrooms. Holy. Smokes. Bacon-wrapped anything is a winner in my books (see: A’s Awesome Bacon-Wrapped Water Chestnuts), but here the contrasting textures played against each other so beautifully. Paired with the salty pork, the sweet scallop and earthy mushrooms, this dish was so good that it was tempting to cancel the rest of our order and have nothing but this for the rest of the night.

The beef carpaccio was placed before our wide eyes next and it was a lovely, bright contrast to the richness of the dish before. Served with with ponzu, wasabi, mayo & garlic chips, this rare beef was light and, somehow, refreshing. It was nice to have a lighter bite after the richness of the scallops before.

It was at this point in our meal that I noticed a crowd of waiters pause from their constant, frenetic activity. Then I spotted a server with a slice of cake with a candle in it. Guu’s birthday celebrations put Chuck E. Cheese to shame. Not only did the wait staff lead the entire restaurant in a rousing rendition of “Happy Birthday”, encouraging everyone to clap and sing along, but even the insanely busy chefs  joined in. At one point, they had the lights flickering on and off. Utter celebrational pandemonium and it was amazing.

Once the place had settled down a little (to be clear, Guu is the least settled place on the planet), the strangest creation of the evening appeared at our table. It was roughly the size of a softball, deep fried and had a wooden knife protruding from the centre. We wracked our brains trying to figure out if we had actually ordered it, decided we hadn’t and dug in anyway. What it turned out to be was a Japanese scotch egg with a layer of pureed pumpkin surrounding a hard-boiled egg. While I was skeptical initially – I’m not a big pumpkin fan, much to the horror of many of my friends – the combination of the creamy pumpkin, rich egg, crispy exterior and tangy sauce was downright addictive. We just about scraped the plate with out chopsticks long after other dishes had been cleared away.

When the spare ribs arrived, it was allI could do to refrain from gobbling them all up myself. The marinated beef was tender and salty, having surely been marinated for quite some time. If you’re a fan of spare ribs, these are a can’t-miss.

The final dishes of the night were the decadent, baked oysters and the light, miso-glazed black cod, a personal favourite of my brother’s. We ordered the oysters because we saw them arrive for another group at our table and they looked so unique! Kind of a twist on oysters Rockefeller, they’re served with spinach and mushrooms, smothered in a potent mayo-garlic sauce and topped with melted cheese…all in a giant shell. This was a thing of glorious, messy beauty. The mushrooms nestled in the there made for an umami bomb of a bite. Definitely give this one a shot, my friends. It’s weird and tasty and I’ve never seen it anywhere else.

Not only was this one of the best meals I’ve had all year, it was by far and away the most fun. Unquestionably, the company helped but the atmosphere at Guu is like none other. It’s not the place to go for a quiet, intimate dinner; it’s the place to go when you want to try innovative, playful and truly remarkable dishes at a pretty reasonable cost. The place is positively brimming with excitement and energy. I can’t wait to go back and try all the dishes I missed on the first go ’round.

In Search of Smoky Perfection: BBQ in T.O.

6 Sep

Barbeque can be such a contentious matter.  Discussing your favourite spot for ribs or fried chicken among friends can lead to long debates about the merits of a dry rub over a wet, whether cornbread is ruined by the addition of jalapenos or which spot in the city smells the best upon entering. I am by no means a bbq snob: I like it all, so long as it’s cooked well. I do prefer sticky, messy wet ribs over the dry-rubbed product but I certainly don’t turn my nose up at them. I don’t believe that there is only one way to do barbeque and I’m on a mission to try it all at the best places Toronto has to offer.

The first bbq spot I tried out in our fair city was an old standby: Phil’s Original BBQ. This was my first taste of “real” barbeque and I was hooked. I recall the ribs, in particular, were excellent. It has been several years since I’ve been there – in fact, Restaurant Makeover hadn’t even come in yet. What say you, folks? Worth a repeat visit?

Next up was Memphis Smoke House. It’s a little further out of the core, at Yonge & Sheppard, but don’t let that stop you. In discussing this post with the husband the other day, we realized that this was the only joint that we found truly exciting. J had read an article in The Star about this place and how the owners had convinced the chef to relocate from Louisiana to Toronto to cook for them. We were blown away by the richness of the ribs, the delicious beans, the crumbly – but not dry – cornbread and the huge portions. It was clear that this was no ordinary bbq we were eating: this was being made by someone who’ done it for years and years and had just about perfected his craft.  Get a combo platter with Aunt Shirley’s BBQ sauce. We have been back several times and brought many others with us. The ribs, the pulled pork, the fries…everything gets a rave review.

Our next stop was the Cluck, Grunt & Low on Bayview. The less said about that the better. Suffice it to say that we were not surprised to see that it had closed within months of opening. The replacement, Highway 61, has fared much better. The food is pretty good, if not super-outstanding. It is, however, very comfortable and pretty good value for your buck.

Then popped up Stockyards.  I have recommended this place til I turned blue in the face. Their fried chicken is remarkably crispy on the outside, while juicy and tender (and molten-lava-hot) on the inside.  I’m not a huge fan of the carraway-laced coleslaw, though I do like the matchstick-thin cabbage. It’s really a personal taste thing. But let us not forget about the ribs! They are smoked to perfection and come with a tangy sauce that’s just ridiculously delicious. You can only get them three days a week, so go early. I can pretty much guarantee you will go often. It should be noted that there are – MAYBE – 20 seats and they are difficult to get. Either be prepared to wait for a spot or just get the take-out.

Finally on my bbq list? Hardys Hogtown Brasserie. My interest was piqued by a Toronto Life article a few months back that said the owner had built his own smoker out of giant drums. It was to open up just down the street from Stockyards, creating some healthy competition. Finally made it in last Friday, a few weeks after their soft opening. Two advantages Hardys has over Stockyards? It’s an actual restaurant and it’s licensed. The list craft beers on tap is a nice alternative to the standard Keith’s-n-Labatt at most places.

The coca-cola ribs were on special so my fellow diner and I ordered two 1/2 racks. My other companions ordered the regular ribs and the slider trio comprised of one pulled chicken, one pulled pork and one pulled brisket sandwich. We were then informed by our incredibly charming and gracious server that they were out of the regular ribs entirely and only had 2 1/4 racks left of the special. Ooooooookay. Shouldn’t the front of house know when a product runs out?

We changed our orders to the 2 1/4 racks of the special and a trio of sliders to split; J’s ribs were swapped out for a trio. Our onion ring apps arrived and they were dang good, if perhaps a little oily. Our mains arrived…sans the trio to split. Once again, our server had to explain that there was a mix up but that they would be happy to give us any other main on the house. She recommended the brisket sandwich, so we got that and the collard greens. All in all, once all the food had arrived, we had to admit that it was all excellent. The coca-cola ribs were sweet without being cloying; the brisket sandwich was piled high with tender, slathered brisket; the trio was perhaps a bit on the small side but delicious nonetheless. The sides of collard greens, potato salad and coleslaw were all completely devoured: always a good sign. Some work needs to be done on the communication between the kitchen and the front of house, but otherwise this was a great spot for friends to gather, have a couple drinks and nosh on some great barbeque. Is it better than Stockyards? Ask me again in a month when I go back for a comparison dinner.

Still to check out on my list? Barque, which has been getting insane rave reviews from all corners, and Lou Dawg’s. Where else do I need to go, my smokehouse-loving, rib-devouring friends?

Wanna Save Some Money? Sure You Do.

29 Aug

Hi, folks!

Consider this a PSA of sorts for those who love to go out for dinner and wouldn’t mind saving a few bucks on said dinner! I came across a site last week called DiningDateNight that offers great deals for higher end restaurants. It’s not a “daily deal” type of concept; instead, a new restaurant gets added each Wednesday you get 30% off your entire bill. And you choose from the entire menu. Thus far, I’ve seen offers for Splendido, L’Unita & Mildred’s Temple Kitchen. Um, yes, please. The offers are for non-peak hours but that’s it for limitations: put $10 down for the deal and you’re good to go.

Is the $10 worth it? Well, here’s a bill from Simple Bistro which illustrates how much you can actually save:

I’ve read a few reviews of people who’ve used the service and so far, so good. The restaurant takes the reservation directly, so the 30% will be automatically removed. No fuss, no muss, as they say. So click HERE give it a whirl if you’re so inclined and let me know what you think!

Sweet & Spicy Barbecue Sauce

29 Aug

My list of Things To Make in 2011 is seemingly endless but I have slowly but surely moved down it over the last eight months. There had been much talk of all things barbecue this summer and, on Friday, I decided the time was nigh: time to make my own barbecue sauce. I scoured the internets (yes, all of them) until I came across a recipe that looked like a great starting point. I prefer tomato-based sauces to the vinegar or mustard ones – though I surely wouldn’t turn up my nose should one of them be proffered – and this one had a ketchup base with lots of spicy seasonings. Sold! Off to the store we went to grab the few items I didn’t already have in the pantry and a nice, big pork butt on which I could slather this tasty concoction.

To get the few items I couldn’t find at the local grocery store, we popped into El Marketino on Keele St. just north of Wilson. You can certainly find everything in Kensington, too; but if you’re in the neighbourhood closer to the 401, I highly suggest giving them a try. I grabbed some great guajillo chile powder there that will likely find it’s way into many more dishes.

This sauce starts off sweet, then you get the slow burn at the back of your mouth. If you like things on the sweeter side, you can increase the amount of honey; if you like things spicier, add more of the chipotles, chile powder and/or cayenne.

Makes roughly 1 1/2 cups.

Ingredients

1 c onions, chopped
2 clove garlic
3/4 c ketchup
1/4 c honey
1/4 c brown sugar
3-4 chipotles in adobo, chopped (and some of the sauce  if you like more heat)
2 tb apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 tb molasses
1 1/2 tb Worcestershire
1 ts chile powder
1 ts paprika
1-2 ts cayenne
salt & pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Heat the olive oil to medium heat  in a pot and saute the garlic and onions for 8 – 10 minutes.
2. Add in the rest of the ingredients and bring to a simmer.
3. Readjust the heat to low and allow to cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. With an immersion blender or food processor, puree the mixture until smooth. You may need to add water to achieve the consistency you desire. If it’s too thick, add a couple of tablespoons of water at a time.

Foil-Baked Salmon

22 Aug

In the never-ending quest to find more delicious, easy fish recipes I came across Giada de Laurentiis’ recipe for salmon baked in foil. I had a quick look through the ingredients and decided it was worth trying out. Picked up some beautiful salmon at New Seaway Fish Market in Kensington (where they will cut you a filet to any size you like – just ask! And ignore the curmudgeonly fishmonger’s attitude. He’s actually really funny.) as we were down there anyway. This is the kind of recipe that makes the most out of a few delicious ingredients. Try to use the fresh herbs if you can, but the dried ones work well, too, and pack a lot of flavour. Wrap it all up in foil, throw it in the oven and 20 minutes later you have melt-in-your-mouth salmon!

As a side note, you can prep these ingredients and have everything ready to go for up to six hours ahead of time, so this would be a great dish for company. Just keep it in the fridge and put it in the oven when you’re ready.

Serves 4.

Ingredients

2 tomatoes, chopped OR 1 14-oz can of diced tomatoes, drained
2 shallots, chopped
2 tb + 2 ts extra virgin olive oil
2 tb fresh lemon juice (about 1/2 lemon)
1 1/2 ts fresh oregano OR 3/4 ts dried oregano
1 1/2 fresh thyme OR 3/4 ts dried thyme
1 ts salt
3/4 ts pepper
4 salmon filets

Directions

1. Preheat your oven to 400F.
2. In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, shallots, 2 tb olive oil, lemon juice, thyme, oregano, 1/2 ts salt and a pinch of pepper.
3. In the centre of a sheet of foil, spoon 1/2 ts of oil. Place the fish on top and then coat. Season with salt & pepper and spoon 1/4 of the tomato mixture on top. Fold the sides over the fish and seal  tightly. Repeat for the other filets.
4. Place all on a baking sheet and cook 20-25 minutes.
5. Remove from the oven and unwrap. Using a spatula, carefully lift the fish from the packet and plate.

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Krepesz in Kensington

22 Aug

The hubby and I planned a little jaunt into Kensington Market this weekend, one of my favourite places in the city. Not only is it prime people-watching space, but you can find anything your little heart desires there. I happened to mention to my folks that we were headed down there and they recommended a little crepe place – a “palacscinta” cafe – that they’d tried and enjoyed. It seemed likely we’d want to pop in somewhere for a snack and, perhaps, a pint, so I took it under advisement.

After wandering around the crowded, slightly insane but somehow organized market for a while, we decided it was time for a wee nibble and found Krepesz European Palascinta Cafe on Augusta. It had an inviting patio with people happily eating and chatting away, so we plopped ourselves down at a table and had a look at the menu. Right off the bat, we knew a decision would be tough. The crepe menu is split into two categories: savoury & sweet. Since we were considering pints, we thought savoury would be the best route though the banana and Nutella crepe called to me. Loudly. Additionally, Krepesz features a number of other Hungarian specialties that looked like comfort food specials. On a winter day, their house soup would be perfect for getting rid of the chill in your bones.

Our server came out shortly thereafter and took our order: a pitcher of Mill St. Organic and the savoury chicken & feta crepe.  Offhandedly,  J mentioned that we’d be splitting the dish. Our waitress nodded, thanked us, and went inside. A few minutes she returned with our pitcher and, bless her heart, frosty cold glasses. In a perfect world, all pint glasses would arrive that cold. It’s  a little thing, but details are important. J poured our drinks and we chatted idly while watching all the fellow market-goers. My favourite game, Spot the Tourist, is almost too easy here.

Ten minutes later, our waitress was back with our crepe…that she’d halved and placed on two plates since we’d be sharing. (Like I said, details.)  The ground chicken wasn’t dried out and the spinach was just barely cooked without wilting away to nothing. The salty bite from the feta & mozzarella was great and it did not go unnoticed that, even split in two, the portions were huge.  Massive. For under $8, you cannot go wrong with this dish.

This place is indicative of the best places in Kensington: unassuming with great, fresh food cooked with care and served by people who effortlessly make your time there as pleasurable as can be.